Denali National Park in Fall

Autumn is a spectacular time to visit Denali National Park. The alpine and subalpine tundra at higher elevations gleams with fall color by mid to late August. The taiga at lower elevations is aglow in reds by early September. The aspens near the park entrance turn brilliant yellow and gold about the first of September.  Winter’s bitter cold has not yet set in. Moose are rutting; bears are feeding actively to fatten up for winter; caribou are migrating. You may be fortunate to see Dall sheep or a wolf. An early snow may decorate the mountains.

Bull moose, Denali National Park

Grizzly Bear on Sable Pass, Denali

Moose cow and calf in Denali

Grizzly bear near Eielson in Denali

We spent the first two weeks of September in Denali National Park. The Athabascan people called the mountain “The Great One,” or “Denali,” and I prefer that name to the name Mt. McKinley given the mountain by an early prospector in letters back to the east coast.

Denali (Mt. McKinley) is a glorious moutain, breathtaking, impressive - magnificent beyond words. It is the tallest mountain in North America and has the greatest elevation gain from base to summit of any peak in the world, rising from a plateau of about 2,000 feet elevation to a spectacular 20,320 feet, clothed in the pure white of snow and glaciers. It is exceptional and unique in that it is in the middle of a six-million acre wilderness accessible by road.

Denali

Denali & Alaska Range - Reflection Pond, Denali National Park

On a clear day the mountain can be seen from more than a hundred miles away, but the awe-inspiring peak is famous for being shrouded in clouds most of the time. The Alaska Range, of which Denali is one peak, is spectacular in itself, but Denali rises far above the next highest peak and when it is visible, it dominates many views within the park. During our visit, it was visible slightly more than half the time.

Denali in fall from Mile 10 on park road

The aspens and balsam poplar in the lowlands near the park entrance and at Wonder Lake, are mixed with spruce in lovely woods. You may see gray jays and red squirrels, especially around the campgrounds, both here and at higher elevations.

Fall color near park entrance, Denali National Park

Gray jay, race canadensis, Denali National Park

Red Squirrel, Denali National Park

The scrub vegetation of the taiga, as the northern boreal forest at this latitude is called, turns infinite shades of red and rust in the fall, making for gorgeous views of the subalpine landscape from about 2,500 to 3,500 feet elevation. The green of the scattered spruce contrasts with the reds of the taiga, the entire landscape framed by rugged mountain ranges. The forest floor feels spongy under your feet as you walk on different mosses and lichens, and you will find many kids of mushrooms.

Fall color on the taiga, after an early September snowstorm on the mountains, Denali National Park

Golden Delicious mushroom - not poisonous but not actually edible, Denali National Park

Opportunities for wildlife viewing in Denali are as awesome as its spectacular scenery. We were surprised at how much wildlife we saw from the park shuttle bus, including grizzlies, moose, caribou, Dall sheep, and even two wolf pups. While shooting photographs from a bus window is not the photographer’s ideal (though at least the windows open!), the shuttle drivers do stop briefly whenever wildlife is sighted, and they try to give passengers an opportunity for photos. But our best photographic opportunities were when we cruised the first 13 miles of the park road daily in mornings and evenings during the moose rut; and when we were able to drive the entire length of the park road in our own vehicle with a road lottery permit.

Bull moose crosses the park road in front of a park shuttle bus, Denali 

Grizzly cub in snow, photographed from park shuttle bus, Denali

Bull moose on taiga in fall, Denali National Park

Dall sheep, photographed from park shuttle bus, Denali

Alpha female wolf and two cubs of Riley Creek Pack, Denali

Migrating caribou in Denali National Park, September

Bull moose, Denali

Most of the six million acre park and preserve is wilderness. There is a single road, 92 miles long, into the park. The first 13 miles of the park road is open to the public. Past this point, the road is gravel and you must travel by shuttle or tour bus, unless you have a campground reservation - in which case you may drive to your campground but must then leave your vehicle there for the duration of your stay. 

The landscape is beautiful, wild, spectacular, and majestic.

Alaska Range after September snowstorm, Denali

Denali and Alaska Range with fall color

Teklanika River from Teklanika Rest Stop, Denali

Kettle pond on tundra near Wonder Lake, Denali

Rugged mountains east of Sable Pass, Denali

Moonrise from Savage Campground, Denali

An early snowstorm on September 2nd closed the road past Eielson Visitor Center at mile 66 the first day of our visit, and more snow delayed traffic the next day. The views of the snow-covered landscape were particularly spectacular after these storms.

Denali Park Road after September snowstorm

Denali from Denali Park Road eastbound after September snowstorm

Grizzly cub viewed from Denali Park shuttle bus

Tour bus headed up Polychrome Pass, Denali

White-tailed ptarmigan, Denali

Eielson Visitor Center, Denali National Park

There are five campgrounds along the park road, and another at the park entrance. We stayed in three of them over a two-week period in order to experience and access different parts of the park more easily. Backpacking and back-country camping are also allowed, with a permit. For four days per year a road lottery allows a small number of people to drive their own vehicle on their one assigned day. Bicycling the park road, or parts of it, is popular and a great way to see the park.

Wonder Lake Campground, Denali National Park

Visitors near Wonder Lake, Denali

Bicycling near Wonder Lake, Denali

Moose and grizzly were the wildlife we saw most. Moose can be seen anywhere in the park but we saw them primarily in a five mile section from about mile 7 to mile 12 along the park road, the section which was closed to any hiking off the road, due to the moose rut. Moose are more easily viewed near the road in the early morning and early evening hours during the moose rut.

Bull moose in Denali

Moose cow with her calf on the taiga in fall, Denali

Bull moose in Denali

Bears, too, can be seen anywhere in the park, but we saw most of them from the park shuttle beyond the Teklanika viewpoint, and when we drove the same parts of the road during the road lottery.

Grizzly heads up a snowbank in Denali

Grizzly on Plains of Murie, Denali National Park

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Fall in Grand Teton National Park

Wondering what you will see on a visit to Grand Teton National Park in October? 

This two minute video highlights dramatic fall color, magnificent views, and wildlife including moose, bear, deer, bison, and pronghorn.

Certain views of the spectacular Grand Teton mountain range have been photographed tens of thousands of times, but each sunrise is still different. It is a surprise, having set out in the dark well before dawn, to see what the sunrise will bring, and in autumn, around the end of September and beginning of October, the fall color is spectacular.

Dawn at Schwabacher Landing

Mt. Moran just before dawn

Dawn at Oxbow Bend

There are more reported moose sightings in October than any other month, but to see a moose you must be in the right place at the right time. To photograph the animal you must also have a great deal of patience. Typically, this bull lay in the sage brush for nearly four hours - showing the moose paparazzi only a wonderful view of his antlers. During this time he stood up only once for 30 seconds. For all we know, he may have laid there another four hours before walking off, as we did not stay longer.

Moose lying in sage brush

Moose are huge animals which can weigh nearly a ton and stand almost 7 feet tall. They feed primarily on vegetation, both on land, and submerged under water. They can even dive - up to 18 feet deep - to feed. They are often found in marshy wetlands, and love to hide in dense brush and willows. It is amazing how quickly such a large animal can disappear into the brush. They are regularly seen along the Snake River, from the Moose-Wilson Road, at Oxbow Bend, at Schwabacher Landing, and also along the Gros Ventre River.

Bull moose near Moose-Wilson Road

Bull moose near Gros Ventre RIver

Bull moose near Gros Ventre River

Bull Moose near Moose-Wilson Road

As with the moose pictured in the sage brush above, many times this animal is first spotted lying in tall grass or sage.

Bull moose in grass

While it is especially thrilling to spot the big bulls with the huge racks of antlers, the cow moose and their calves are also fascinating to watch.

Cow moose feeding in pond

Calf born this spring still stays near his mama

Much of the park provides excellent habitat for bear - both grizzly bear and black bear. In fall they enter a phase called “hyperphagia” in which they eat voraciously in preparation for winter hibernation. These young black bears were photographed along the Moose-Wilson Road.

Cinnamon-colored American Black Bear

Tourists watch American Black Bear on Moose-Wilson Road

The aspens and sycamores turn bright shades of yellow and deep gold in fall. Some bushes turn to red and rust colors. The grasslands glow gold in morning and evening light.

Fall color near Jenny Lake

Aspens on Moose-Wilson Road

Near water, you may see various ducks, Canada geese, and other water fowl. The premier winged fishermen are eagles and osprey.

Osprey with fish

American Bison are an iconic animal of both Grand Teton and Yellowstone National Parks. Huge animals, often found in herds, they can be dangerous and as with other big game, it is important to keep an appropriate distance - federal law requires 25 yards for most of the big animals, and 100 yards for bear and wolf.

American Bison

Pronghorns are a lovely, graceful animal, often found in small groups. It is the fastest animal on land in North America, and is often seen in the open sage grasslands of the park. Antelope Flats and the area along the Gros Ventre River are especially good places to observe pronghorn.

Pronghorns