Elk Rut in Yellowstone

This year was the first time we observed the elk rut in Yellowstone - an amazing wildlife phenomenon. During the mating season, which begins in September and lasts into October, males bugle their superiority over a herd of females, and bulls can clash fiercely as they vie for the dominant position in a herd. 

For years we had looked forward to hearing the sounds of the bugling elk and observing the animals during the rut. By Labor Day, people had begun to hear bugling elk at a distance in the fir forest on the ridge of the continental divide behind our cabin near Yellowstone. But no one had yet seen a mature bull. The males retreat to higher elevations and the cover of forest during the summer and are seldom seen until they come to lower elevations, seeking the females, or cows, during the rut, or mating season.

On Labor Day weekend, we spotted this “spike elk” (no branching of the antlers) near Mammoth in Yellowstone National Park. He appeared a beautiful, healthy, strong, proud animal. But likely he would not mate this year, as he would probably not win out in a fight with a mature bull. The rangers at Mammoth told us they had heard bugling in the distance but had not yet seen “the big guys.”

Spike Elk near Mammoth - Yellowstone National Park

The bugling of the males is a unique and unforgettable sound. Randy first heard this call aweek later in the Madison River valley east of West Yellowstone in the national park. Bulls normally bugle from a standing position, but this one was bugling while lying in the grass. 

Elk in Grass Bugling - Madison Valley, Yellowstone - photo by Randy

Several females, or cows, were lying in the grass or standing on the bank, on the opposite side of the river. They were calling to him and he seemed to be bugling in reply.

Photo by Randy

Photo by Randy

In mid September, we spotted this magnificent 6x7 bull lying in the tall golden grass of autumn, again along the Madison west of Madison Junction, with four females nearby. Such a beauty.

6x7 Elk, Madison River Valley, Yellowstone National Park

As no other bulls seemed to be in the general vicinity, this small group of animals appeared pretty relaxed. The bull eventually got to his feet, leisurely walking over to each of the females in turn.

Photo by Randy

Elk Pair - Bull and Cow - Madison River Valley, Yellowstone

With one of them, he smelled her private parts, then let out a plaintive bugle. We don’t know what he was saying but it surely seemed like a sexual plea. The male is ready to mate, but the female is only ready one day out of twenty, based on her estrus cycle.

Elk, also called by the Native American name “wapiti,” are a large and impressive animal and a common sight in Yellowstone National Park, although females are seen much more frequently than males, and the bulls are not commonly seen in summer. These animals, especially the males during the rut, can be very dangerous. They have been known to charge people and even vehicles, and they can cause a lot of damage to a car! Rangers recommend staying at least 75 yards from an elk.

Once found across North America, elk are now found mostly in places like Yellowstone or the National Elk Refuge in Wyoming. A large bull elk may weigh between 700 and 1,100 pounds and stand up to 5 feet at the shoulder with antlers that can reach as much as four feet above above his head. 

Photo by Randy

Calves are born in early summer. The bull loses his antlers in March, and grows new ones annually by the time of the breeding season in September and October.  In winter, herds of elk migrate to lower elevations where feeding is easier. In the Greater Yellowstone area, many elk migrate out of the park in winter, to these lower elevations. One of their routes goes through the valley overlooked by our cabin and over Raynolds Pass at the Montana border, into the lower Madison Valley around Ennis.

Photo by Randy

Celebrating the Conservation Easement on the 2Lazy2 Ranch

View of Henry's Lake across 2Lazy2 Ranch in July

For over a decade, we have walked in summer and snowshoed or skied in winter along part of the western perimeter of the 2Lazy2 Ranch (love that name!) north of Henry’s Lake in Island Park, Idaho. From our cabin bordering the 2Lazy2, we have watched bald eagles soar, and red tailed hawks and marsh hawks hunt over the sagebrush grassland of the valley. My favorite wild sound on the 2Lazy2 in summer is the wild and primitive call of the sandhill cranes that nest here; after the grazing cattle arrive each summer, their lowing is the dominant sound on the ranch. 

Black Mountain & 2Lazy2 in winter

Nestled between Black Mountain, Henry’s Lake, and the Continental Divide, with views of Mt. Sawtelle, the Centennial Range, and Two Top Mountain, the 2Lazy2 is a working ranch in a spectacular mountain setting. Its 700 acres spread over much of the area between the north shore of Henry’s Lake and Raynolds Pass at the Montana border. Fox and coyotes pursue their prey; wolves occasionally prowl and run; sandhill cranes mate; trumpeter swans and Canada geese fly overhead, and white pelicans soar over this beautiful land, all of them seemingly paying no attention to the cattle that graze here in summer. Trout from Henry’s Lake come up the stream that flows through the ranch to spawn. 

Cattle grazing on 2Lazy2 ~ Centennial Range in distance

View of Two Top Mountain across 2Lazy2

The ranch is used by elk, moose, pronghorn, deer, and other wildlife. It has a key position on two major wildlife migration routes. The 2Lazy2 is located on the north-south migration route for about 300 pronghorn of the Madison Valley herd who migrate annually over Raynolds Pass. It is also on the east-west migration corridor for grizzly and black bears, mountain lions, wolves and wolverines who move between the Greater Yellowstone and the Centennial Mountains. 

2Lazy2 and Black Mountain in spring

In spring, wildflowers spread exuberant colors between the ranch land and the fir forest and aspen groves that lie near the ranch on the west and the sage-covered slopes on the east. Following summer afternoon thunder showers, beautiful rainbows often appear over the 2Lazy2. In late summer the lush green of the valley turns to gold as the grasses dry. In fall, the aspen along the slopes of the ridges overlooking the 2Lazy2 turn glorious shades of orange and yellow. In winter, the land is covered with the pristine serenity of snow, and without the cattle it is very quiet.

White Wyethia (Mules-Ears) on 2Lazy2 in early July

Larkspur

White Wyethia

Wildflowers on 2Lazy2 Ranch

Until last fall, we had only hoped and dreamed that this magnificent valley would ultimately be preserved from development. Randy and I had known for several years that The Nature Conservancy in Idaho had a long-term plan, the Henry’s Fork Legacy Project, in collaboration with other organizations and agencies, to acquire conservation easements to protect wildlife throughout the Upper Henry’s Fork. But it seemed too much to hope that this would include the 2Lazy2 Ranch.

Fence crew on 2Lazy2 before cattle arrive in summer

Fence crew ~ Mt Sawtelle & Centennial Range in distance

The cutest ranch worker

What a joy it was when we learned in September 2010 that the Bureau of Land Management, together with The Nature Conservancy in Idaho and the Teton Regional Land Trust, had arranged to purchase a conservation easement on the 2Lazy2 property from the Steinke family that has owned the ranch for several generations over four decades. The Teton Regional Land Trust did extensive work to document the conservation values of the 2Lazy2 property. What a wonderful decision by the land owners to agree to this arrangement! This means the preservation of ranching activity as well as permanent protection for wildlife habitat.

Trout come up Timber Creek (downstream from this site) 
from Henry's Lake to spawn
Black Mountain is in distance

According to The Nature Conservancy, “Conservation easements are permanent legal agreements that protect important habitat from development, while ensuring that traditional ownership and land uses like ranching continue.”  So the Steinkes will be able to continue to use the land as a working ranch, while it will always be preserved from housing and commercial development. TNC announced that “the conservation easement acquisition was funded by the Land and Water Conservation Fund and the Federal Land Transaction Facilitation Act, allocated by the Bureau of Land Management.”

Cattle grazing in summer on 2Lazy2

The conservation easement on the 2Lazy2 Ranch is an excellent example of preservation of valuable ranch land and wildlife habitat through the collaboration of private organizations and willing land owners, funded by wise programs of federal support in the public interest. 

View of Mt. Sawtelle & Henrys Lake across 2Lazy2 Ranch

The conservation easement will preserve both wildlife and conservation values that most Americans cherish. The wildlife habitat on the 2Lazy2 is part of one of the most beautiful landscapes in North America and an important component of the Greater Yellowstone ecosystem. The migration routes of numerous animals, and the trout spawning stream that flows into Henry’s Lake, a premier fishing destination, will be preserved forever from human interference. At the same time, historic ranching activities will continue on this beautiful land.

White Wyethia on 2Lazy2 Ranch ~ Black Mountain in distance

Dubois Grouse Days

The sky was midnight black as we stepped carefully over barbed wire that we could barely see in the dark, and squeezed through a fence a few paces beyond. Randy and I entered our bird observation blind through the zippered door of the nylon tent-like structure. There were zippers everywhere, for poking our cameras out in any direction. The temperature was about 35 degrees as we sat down on two plastic chairs to get our camera equipment organized by flashlight in the darkness.

Even before we could see the birds, we could hear the soft plopping of the grouse inflating the air sacs on their chest. As the first hint of dawn crept into the sky, and then began to illuminate the area around us, we realized there were many grouse strutting, displaying, running and fighting. 

Note white ruff around the neck and distinctive white markings on the tail feathers

At first we could only make out the movement of the birds from the patches of white feathers on the males’ chest that we could see in the dim light. Gradually as the light increased, we began to see more and more birds, and I believe more birds also continued to gather on the breeding ground, until there were around a hundred birds, mostly males in various stages of display.

We were watching the mating dance, or display, of the Greater Sage Grouse, on ranch land about nine miles out of Dubois, Idaho, as part of the annual Dubois Grouse Days festival. For years, ever since seeing a photograph of this flamboyant display, I had wanted to see this bird in its mating dance. It was exhilerating to see so many of them, and fascinating to watch.

This three-and-a-half minute video captures the birds strutting, displaying, fighting, and copulating.

Once widespread across most of western North America, the population of this large grouse may be only half of its historic levels due to destruction of its native shrub-steppe habitat through agriculture, urban development, and over grazing. It is a large bird, up to 30 inches long and standing two feet tall, weighing from two to eight pounds. 

The dominant male with several females

The Greater Sage Grouse is mainly found at elevations of 4,000 to 9,000 feet in the broad sagebrush plains of the central Rocky Mountain states, Nevada, and northeastern California, with a small population in central Washington. Adults depend primarily on different species of sagebrush for their food as well as for cover. The bird has been considered for protection under the Endangered Species Act, and various government and private agencies are working to conserve remaining habitat in order to reduce the continued decline of this species.

The male retracts his head as he fully inflates the air sacs

In the spring, the Greater Sage Grouse males gather on historic breeding grounds known as “leks” to strut and try to attract females. They fan their beautiful pointed tails; strut in one direction and then another as if to show off both their fancy tails and the dramatic white ruff of feathers around their neck and chest; they inflate yellow air sacs underneath the white feathers that cover their chest, and seem to almost pump the air sacs several times in a row with a plopping sound each time. If you get a good look, you can also see that they erect special head plumes at the height of this display. The females are mostly attracted to the main or dominant male(s) on a particular lek, and a female will signal by a distinctive holding open of her wings when she is ready for mating.  

Here the head is visible just before the air sacs are fully inflated

The male is in the process of inflating the air sacs

A fraction of a second later, the air sacs are fully inflated

We watched the birds for about two-and-a-half hours, fascinated by their behavior, on this lek outside Dubois, which actually was in a corral. We felt gratitude to the rancher for allowing the birds their natural mating ritual, and giving permission for the use of his land by visitors for the Dubois Grouse Days.

Observation blind in field near Dubois, Idaho

The next day, we had arranged to use a blind at the Crooked Creek Preserve of The Nature Conservancy, about 25 miles west of Dubois. This is a lovely unspoiled 82,000-acre preserve, mostly sagebrush steppe, with gently rolling hills rising to snow-capped peaks in mid-April. Another two-and-a-half hours in a similar blind, starting well before dawn, was a wonderful experience. 

Look carefully for the white chests of the displaying
sage grouse in the sage meadows below snow-covered
foothills at Crooked Creek Nature Preserve

For anyone interested in watching or photographing the Greater Sage Grouse display, we would highly recommend the two-day Dubois Grouse Days either for their guided tours to the leks, or to arrange for the use of a blind.

Santiago (James) and Bartolome (Bartholomew), Galapagos Islands - Day 7 And a panga ride in Black Turtle Cove - Day 8

Puerto Egas on Santiago Island

Another very photogenic spot for our last full day in Galapagos, on the island where Darwin spent half of the time he spent on land in these islands.

Puerto Egas on Santiago

For a detailed account of Darwin's experiences here, read the book by Thalia Grant and Greg Estes, Darwin in Galapagos: Footsteps to a New World (Princeton University Press 2009). Grant and Estes have been called the world experts on Darwin in Galapagos. We couldn't believe our good fortune in having Greg as our guide on this trip!

Greg Estes

After a wet landing on sand we walked on volcanic ash and pahoehoe lava, observing the wildlife in the intertidal area, part of which Greg called a "Fur Seal grotto."

Galapagos Fur Seal

Galapagos Fur Seal

Galapagos Fur Seal with pup

Again we saw many Marine Iguanas and Sally Lightfoot Crabs on the lava rocks.

Marine Iguana on Santiago

An American Oystercatcher pair walked along the beach with their chick.

American Oystercatcher with chick

Galapagos Sea Lion

This Sea Lion posed in a beautiful setting surrounded by Sally Lightfoot Crabs.

Our best views of Pacific Green Sea Turtles, which we saw several times on our snorkels, was today.

Pacific Green Sea Turtle

After our visit to Santiago Island we navigated Buccaneer Cove on our way to Bartolome Island, a small islet just of the east coast of Santiago.

Lava cliffs at Buccaneer Cove

Bartolome Island

The views from Bartolome are probably the best known scenes of Galapagos - and most visited by tourists - because of the proximity of this island to resorts, as well as the spectacular views from the top of the island 360 feet above sea level, accessed by a boardwalk and 380 wooden stairs.

View from Bartolome towards "Pinnacle" (photo by Chris Pulling)

Stairs to summit on Bartolome

Sunset view from summit of Bartolome

Black Turtle Cove on Santa Cruz - Day 8

This trip was packed with activities, even on the morning before we prepared to go to the Baltra Airport for our return flight to Quito. Back off the coast of Santa Cruz, near Baltra, on the morning of Day 8 of our Galapagos cruise, we enjoyed a morning panga ride at dawn in Black Turtle Cove. With our image of Galapagos as so dry and arid - which the islands are - it was always surprising to see the lush green mangroves along some of the coasts. Here we saw Pacific Green Turtles, Great Blue Heron, and several sharks including a group of five lurking together as if they were sleeping below the surface of the water.